FAQ

"Pashmina" generally refers to a fine shawl made either from pure cashmere or from cashmere and silk. The term derives from the Persian word "Pashm," which means "wool." In Northern India and Nepal, the derived term "Pashmina" refers to the most renowned noble fiber of the region — cashmere wool. Pashmina simply means "product made from cashmere wool."

Cashmere is the material; Pashmina is the product made from it. "Cashmere" refers to the fine undercoat of the cashmere goat — a raw material processed into various textiles worldwide. "Pashmina," on the other hand, specifically refers to a shawl or cloth made from cashmere or cashmere and silk. The word comes from Persian and literally means "wool" — which is why in the Himalayan region, particularly in Northern India and Nepal, "Pashmina" is still used today as a synonym for cashmere wool itself. In European usage, the meaning has shifted: here, Pashmina refers to the finished textile product.

"100% Cashmere" is a legally prescribed and permissible material designation in Germany according to the Textile Labeling Act. "100% Pashmina," however, is not a permissible fiber designation under this regulation — only the designations listed in the EU Textile Labeling Regulation may be used on labels. A label reading "100% Pashmina" without further material information is therefore a warning sign: it often indicates that the product contains no cashmere wool at all.

In short: Genuine Pashmina is always made from cashmere — but not every cashmere product may be called Pashmina, and not everything sold as "Pashmina" contains cashmere.

A Pashmina is made from the undercoat of the cashmere goat — more precisely, from the soft underfur (called the duvet) that lies beneath the coarser guard hair of the animals. Only this fine underfur is used in production.

Cashmere wool is distinguished by three special properties: an above-average fiber length that gives the yarn greater strength, a very small fiber diameter, and natural smoothness. This combination makes it softer and more supple than other wool types with comparable fiber length — such as sheep's wool.

Cashmere goats are raised primarily in the cold, dry high plateaus of China and Mongolia, where the climate promotes the development of this particularly fine underfur. The wool is combed out in spring, cleaned, and then spun into yarn.

Not all cashmere wool is equal: only carefully selected qualities guarantee the high wearing comfort and durability that characterize a good Pashmina. At pashmina.de, every cashmere delivery is regularly tested in a recognized laboratory under an electron scanning microscope for purity and fiber fineness.

The cashmere wool that our partners in Nepal process for pashmina.de comes exclusively from Mongolia and Inner Mongolia (China) — the two most significant cashmere-producing regions in the world.

This is no coincidence: the global cashmere market produces approximately 24,000 tons of raw cashmere annually, of which China alone supplies 50% (approximately 12,000 tons) and Mongolia 40% (approximately 9,600 tons). Together, these two regions account for roughly 90% of global cashmere production —
the remainder is distributed among Iran, Afghanistan, and Kyrgyzstan and other countries in the Central Asian high plateaus.

Mongolia and Inner Mongolia are considered not only the most productive but also the origin of particularly fine cashmere fibers: the extremely continental climate with long, harsh winters forces cashmere goats to develop a dense, particularly soft underfur. Our partners in Nepal source raw wool exclusively from these regions, process it using traditional methods, and thus ensure a traceable, known supply chain — from the goat to the finished cloth.

Fiber fineness is the most important quality characteristic of cashmere — and it is measured in microns. One micron equals one thousandth of a millimeter. The smaller the diameter of a fiber, the softer, lighter, and warmer the finished fabric.

To put this dimension into perspective: a human hair measures on average 50 to 100 microns in diameter. Normal sheep's wool ranges from 25 to 35 microns. Even the finest merino wool begins at 15 to 16 microns — and baby alpaca, which is considered exceptionally fine, ranges from 19 to 21 microns. According to international standards, cashmere may not exceed a fiber diameter of 19 microns to be called cashmere at all.

The yarns we use at pashmina.de have a fiber diameter of 14 to 16 microns. A fiber of this fineness is approximately six times thinner than a human hair.

The harvesting of cashmere wool is tied to a precise moment in the year: spring. During this time, cashmere goats begin to shed their winter coat — the dense underfur that has protected them through months of temperatures as low as minus 50 degrees Celsius is no longer needed. It is precisely in this short window that the wool is harvested.

The wool for our cloths is combed out — by hand, with special combs, in rhythm with the natural coat shedding cycle. The animals are not sheared but gently combed while they are already shedding their winter coat. The result is a fiber that retains its natural length and structure — and that is crucial for the quality of the later yarn. Long, intact fibers can be spun more finely, form more stable bonds in the fabric, and result in less pilling.

Only the fine underfurs are collected — the so-called duvet. The coarse guard hair, called grannen hair, is subsequently carefully separated and not further processed. This separation process — dehairing — is one of the most labor-intensive steps in the entire production and significantly determines the purity and quality of the finished yarn.

What makes this wool so rare is simply the quantity each individual goat provides: only 150 to 200 grams of raw wool per animal per year. After dehairing, washing, and spinning, only about one third of that remains as high-quality, usable yarn. Therefore, a finished Pashmina shawl requires the fibers from two to three animals — even though the finished cloth weighs only 120 grams. For comparison: a sheep provides many times more raw wool at its annual shearing.

The harvested raw wool is subsequently washed, cleaned of impurities, sorted by color, and spun into yarn — before it is woven by our partners in Nepal into the finished cloths you find at pashmina.de.

This question touches the heart of what makes a genuine Pashmina: combining world-class raw material with world-class craftsmanship. Both occur in different places — and there are good reasons for this.

The cashmere goat needs extreme climate: temperatures down to minus 50 degrees Celsius, barren high plateaus, harsh winters, icy winds. That is precisely what the steppes of Mongolia and Inner Mongolia offer — not the Kathmandu Valley. Nepal lies lower, is warmer and more fertile. Cashmere goats do not thrive there in the quality needed for our yarns.

Weaving, on the other hand, requires something different: generations of craftspeople passing down knowledge of traditional techniques, a developed infrastructure of spinning mills and weaving mills, and a feel that only comes from decades of practice. The Kathmandu Valley has been exactly this center for centuries — known not only for its breathtaking nature but also as the heart of ancient craftsmanship.

Concretely, it works like this: the combed raw wool from Mongolia and Inner Mongolia is washed there, dehaired, and spun into fine yarn. Our suppliers deliver this finished yarn to our partners in Nepal, where it is woven by hand on traditional wooden looms into the finished cloths.

With certain products, we go one step further: for our Ayo Pashmina, for example, already dehaired and washed wool is hand-spun directly in Nepal into yarn — using the oldest method that exists. What emerges is not uniform industrial yarn but a lively, slightly irregular fiber that gives the finished cloth its distinctive character.

This division of labor is not a compromise but the result of long historical development: each region does what it does best. At pashmina.de, our cloths have been made for over 25 years in a traditional manufactory in the Kathmandu Valley — by passionate craftspeople working according to time-honored techniques.

When buying Pashminas, you often encounter three terms that sound exclusive: Nepalese cashmere wool, Baby Cashmere, and wool from the Changthangi goat. Here's a factual breakdown:

Nepalese cashmere wool does not exist in any significant quantity. Nepal is a processing region, not a production region. Cashmere goats are not kept there on any relevant scale. The raw wool of Nepalese weaving mills comes almost exclusively from China or Mongolia — the countries that together account for approximately 90% of global cashmere production. We say this openly: our wool also comes from Mongolia and Inner Mongolia, processed by our long-standing partners in Nepal.

Baby Cashmere is a marketing term without legal definition. The German Textile Labeling Act does not recognize it as a permissible fiber designation — the label must simply state "Cashmere." Those who use it generously nonetheless raise expectations they can hardly fulfill.

The Changthangi goat is a genuine, rare goat breed from the high plateaus of Ladakh — and that is the decisive point: it is rare. The Changthangi goat produces only 30 to 40 tons of wool worldwide per year. That corresponds to just 0.5% of global cashmere production. For comparison: Mongolia alone produces approximately 9,600 tons annually. Dealers offering their Pashminas on a larger scale from Changthangi wool should be able to explain where these quantities come from — because the math is clear.

We avoid such terms — and the expectations they raise without being able to fulfill them.

The history of Pashmina is older than most cultural artifacts we take for granted today — and it does not begin with a fashion magazine of the 1990s but in the high plateaus of the Himalayas, long before the term Pashmina ever reached Europe.

The beginnings — Antiquity and the Middle Ages

The use of cashmere wool dates back to antiquity. References to wool shawls made from cashmere fibers are found in texts created between the 3rd century before Christ and the 11th century after Christ. Cashmere was already considered a luxury good in antiquity, traded along the Silk Road to the Roman Empire. According to local tradition, the actual weaving tradition — the craft that makes a Pashmina a Pashmina — was established in the 14th century by the Holy Mir Sayyid Ali Hamadani, who on a journey to Ladakh discovered the fineness of the local goat wool, combed a shawl himself, and thus laid the foundation for Kashmiri weaving art.

The golden age — the Mughal Empire

Pashmina experienced decisive growth in the 15th and 16th centuries under Kashmiri ruler Zayn-ul-Abidin, who brought weavers from Central Asia to the region and thus established a weaving tradition that remains vibrant today. Under the Mughal emperors — particularly under Akbar the Great, who ruled in the 16th century — Pashmina became the epitome of imperial representation. Akbar had his own manufactories built, systematically promoted the craft, and established Pashmina as a symbol of power. Shawls were gifted to dignitaries, given as dowries, and were reserved for the nobility.

Discovery by Europe

In the 18th century, Pashmina reached Europe — first England, then France. The decisive impetus came from Empress Joséphine, wife of Napoleon: she was a passionate collector of Kashmiri shawls and owned more than 400 specimens. For particularly valuable pieces, she paid up to 15,000 to 20,000 gold francs per piece. A French worker earned approximately 300 to 400 francs per year around 1800 — a fine shawl thus cost 50 to 60 times a year's wages. No other textile of the era reached this value. The cashmere shawl was not fashion — it was currency for social status.

Joséphine's passion made Pashmina a mandatory accessory for European aristocracy and the rising middle class. The Paisley pattern, still found on many Pashminas today, emerged in Europe as an imitation of Indian originals — named after the Scottish town of Paisley, which had weaving mills in the 19th century that reproduced Kashmiri patterns for the mass market.

The present

In the mid-1990s, Pashmina experienced a worldwide renaissance when it appeared in European and American fashion magazines and was worn by Hollywood stars. However, this boom had a downside: the term "Pashmina" became a marketing word for shawls of all kinds — regardless of material. What began as a designation for one of the world's noblest textiles ended up as a label on viscose shawls on clearance. The art of genuine Pashmina weaving, which weavers in Srinagar and Nepal have refined over centuries, deserves different treatment — and that is precisely what we try to preserve at pashmina.de.

Shahtoosh — in Persian "King of Wools" — is considered the finest animal textile fiber in the world. With a fiber diameter of only 9 to 12 microns, it is even finer than cashmere. A Shahtoosh shawl is feather-light, extraordinarily warm — and can be pulled through a finger ring (like our Eco-Shahtooshs or thin Pashminas).

Behind this unique fineness lies a serious problem: the fiber comes from the underfur of the Chiru, the Tibetan antelope (Pantholops hodgsonii) — a wild animal that can neither be tamed nor sheared. To obtain the wool, the animals must be killed. Three to five antelope die for a single shawl. The consequences were devastating: the Tibetan antelope population declined over the course of the 20th century from approximately one million animals to sometimes fewer than 75,000.

Since 1979, the Tibetan antelope has been listed in Appendix I of the international species protection agreement CITES — the highest protection status the agreement knows, equivalent to elephant, tiger, and rhinoceros. Production, trade, purchase, and possession of Shahtoosh are banned worldwide. Nevertheless, an ongoing black market exists: a single shawl fetches prices of up to 20,000 US dollars on illegal markets.

At pashmina.de, we carry exclusively products made from cashmere wool — a fiber obtained through gentle combing without harming the animals.

The Eco-Shahtoosh is a homage — not a replacement, but a conscious answer to a ban.

Genuine Shahtoosh, the "King of all Wools," comes from the underfur of the Tibetan antelope and has been banned worldwide since 1979. No reputable dealer may offer it, no buyer may own it. What remained was the question: is it possible to achieve the sensory properties of a Shahtoosh — the delicate fineness, the almost weightless wearing feel, the characteristically irregular weave structure — with a legal, ethically sound material?

Pashmina.de's answer is: yes — with pure cashmere wool of 14 micron fiber fineness.

For comparison: genuine Shahtoosh has an average fiber diameter of approximately 11 microns. Our Eco-Shahtoosh, at 14 microns, falls in the range that experts call luxury cashmere. The difference from genuine Shahtoosh is measurable but barely perceptible in wearing feel.

What makes the Eco-Shahtoosh particularly special is the processing: the fabric is woven by hand on a traditional loom and then carefully washed in a second step — a process that gives the cloth its characteristically irregular, lively structure. No two pieces are identical. The open fringe hem is the visible sign of this handwork.

The result is a cloth you can barely feel on your skin — and that has not cost any animal its life.

The Tibetan antelope is a distinctly wild animal. The animals are particularly shy and cannot be captured or sheared. This is not a matter of insufficient effort — it is a biological reality. To date, no zoo or other facility worldwide has successfully kept the Tibetan antelope in captivity. No enclosure, no breeding program, no zoo — nowhere on Earth.

The reason lies in the extreme specialization of the animal to its habitat. The Tibetan antelope lives at elevations between 4,600 and 6,000 meters, in one of the most hostile environments on Earth. Its red blood cells are twice as numerous as in humans — a unique biological adaptation that makes oxygen transport possible at this extreme altitude. At lower elevations, with more oxygen, warmer climate, and different vegetation, the animal is not viable — and would not, even if it were, develop an underfur of the same fineness. The climate is the producer, not the animal alone.

There are isolated efforts in India to domesticate the Tibetan antelope in order to legally use sheared Shahtoosh — but these attempts have so far been unsuccessful and are considered biologically scarcely feasible by experts.

This means: genuine Shahtoosh was always, is today, and will tomorrow only be obtained through the killing of the animal. There is no clean version. There is no legal path. There is only the ban — and our Eco-Shahtoosh as an answer to it.

Why is my new Pashmina not yet as soft — will it get better?

Yes. Significantly so.

A new Pashmina rarely feels the way a Pashmina that has already been worn for a season does. This is not a quality defect — it is the nature of the fiber, which must first unfold.

What happens during the first wearing

The microscopically fine cashmere fibers are still in their original position when new — tight, tense, untouched. Only through body heat and the gentle movement of the cloth during wearing do the fibers begin to relax, shift in relation to each other, and develop the characteristic suppleness for which cashmere is known. Each wearing is a small step in this direction — noticeable already after the first few times, distinct after an entire season.

What distinguishes a genuine Pashmina in this regard

Cashmere wool becomes softer over time — this is one of the special properties of this fiber that distinguishes it from almost all other materials. Synthetic materials age differently: they lose grip and shine over time. Cashmere gains. A Pashmina that has been worn regularly for ten years and properly cared for is softer than on the first day — not despite the wearing, but because of it.

This also works in reverse as a warning sign: a cheap scarf that feels soft initially loses this softness after the first wash — because it does not come from the fiber but from a chemical treatment of the surface. Genuine cashmere needs no tricks. It only needs time — and someone to wear it.

What additionally supports the process

Washing also helps: water causes the fibers to swell, relax, and reorder themselves. But the real engine of softness is wearing itself — body heat, the breath of the fabric as it moves, the thousand small touches of a season.

If you just unpacked your new Pashmina and are not quite convinced yet — wear it. The real softness comes with time.

Those who understand what cashmere is made of immediately understand why it must be treated differently than other textiles. It is not a whim — it is chemistry.

Cashmere is protein

Cashmere wool is a protein fiber — just like silk, like human hair, like fingernails. The fiber consists primarily of keratin, a complex protein molecule. This is the reason for everything that makes cashmere special: its softness, its warmth, its lightness. And it is the reason for its sensitivity.

Proteins react particularly strongly to three things: heat, moisture, and alkaline substances. Anyone who has ever boiled an egg in hot water has seen what heat does to protein — it changes its structure irreversibly. The same principle occurs with cashmere, only more slowly and subtly.

What water does to the fiber

Cashmere fibers do not have a completely smooth surface — they are microscopically finely scaled, similar to roof tiles that overlap. In the dry state, these scales lie flat and smooth. As soon as the fiber comes into contact with water, they swell and open slightly. In this swollen state, the fiber is particularly vulnerable: the opened scales interlock with mechanical movement — the result is felting. The hotter the water, the more the fiber swells, the greater the felting risk.

What wrong detergents do

Full-wash detergents and many universal cleaners contain so-called proteases — enzymes that specifically break down proteins. This is practical for stains on cotton. With cashmere, it is fatal: the proteases attack the fiber itself, dissolve its structure, and make the cloth a bit rougher and more brittle with each wash. A good wool detergent does not contain these enzymes — it protects the protein fiber instead of breaking it down.

What this means for care

The consequence is simple: cashmere needs cool water, gentle movement, short contact time, and a protein-neutral detergent. Those who follow this will have a Pashmina that becomes softer with each wash — not rougher. Well-cared-for cashmere lasts decades. Poorly cared-for cashmere barely survives a season.

Both are possible — and both can be done correctly or incorrectly. The method is less decisive than the care taken.

Hand washing — the safe choice

Hand washing is the traditional recommendation, and for good reason: it gives you full control. Fill a sink with lukewarm water — maximum 30 °C — and add a small amount of wool detergent. Submerge the Pashmina and move it gently in the water without rubbing, wringing, or pulling. Five to ten minutes is sufficient. Then rinse thoroughly with water of the same temperature — a sudden temperature change from warm to cold can stress the fibers and promote felting. Do not wring out excess water; instead, gently roll the Pashmina in a towel and press carefully.

Machine washing — possible if done correctly

Washing in the wool cycle of the washing machine is also possible. Please ensure that the water temperature does not exceed 30 °C and that spinning is kept to a minimum. Place the Pashmina preferably in a mesh laundry bag — this protects it from friction with other laundry. Wash it alone if possible or only with other delicate wool items, never together with jeans, items with velcro, or other rough fabrics. Choose a spin speed of no more than 600 revolutions — less is more.

What is not permitted in any case

Neither hand nor machine washing should involve rubbing, brushing, or wringing the Pashmina. Soaking for extended periods should also be avoided — the longer the fiber sits in water, the more it swells, the greater the felting risk. And: full-wash detergent, fabric softener, and bleach have no place with cashmere.

Less often than you probably think — and that is good news.

Cashmere is a protein fiber with natural self-cleaning and odor-repelling properties. This is not marketing speak but chemistry: the keratin structure of the fiber barely absorbs odors and often releases light soiling on its own when aired. A Pashmina that has only been worn and not soiled usually does not need washing — it needs fresh air.

The rule of thumb

After wearing, shake out your Pashmina and let it hang in the open air for a few hours — not in the sun, not on a heater, simply at room temperature. In most cases, that is sufficient. Those who wear their Pashmina regularly get by with two to four washes per season — with occasional wearing, correspondingly fewer.

When to wash?

Wash your Pashmina when it is visibly soiled, has taken on a persistent odor — such as after a restaurant visit — or feels heavier and duller than usual after extended wearing. The last criterion is often the most reliable: a freshly washed and properly dried cashmere feels lighter and softer than an often-worn, unwashed one.

Why less is better

Each wash is a strain — even a gentle one. The fibers swell, rub against each other, are minimally stressed. Those who wash their Pashmina rarely but properly have a cloth that becomes softer over years. Those who wash it too frequently, even if gently, accelerate natural wear. The best care is often the care you skip.

Drying is the step where most mistakes happen — not during washing itself. If you wash your Pashmina correctly and then dry it incorrectly, you still end up with a warped or shrunken cloth.

First: remove water — but correctly

Never wring. A wet Pashmina is heavy and the swollen fibers are particularly vulnerable — wringing stretches and deforms them irreversibly. Instead: if the Pashmina is still very wet after washing, gently knead it and press the water out of the wool fibers. Even gentler is the towel method: lay the damp Pashmina flat on a dry towel, gently roll it up, and press carefully — the towel absorbs much of the moisture without stressing the fibers.

Dry flat — always

Lay your Pashmina flat on a drying rack to dry — hanging it could cause the fabric to warp. This is especially true for a loosely woven Pashmina: when wet, the fabric is heavy enough to stretch under its own weight if hung. Laid flat, it retains its shape.

While still damp, gently bring the Pashmina back to its original shape — gently stretch it out, smooth it, straighten the fringe. What lies crooked while drying will dry crooked.

What to avoid

The drying process should not be accelerated by laying it in the sun or on a heater. Direct heat — whether from sunlight, a heater, or a clothes dryer — damages the protein fiber in two ways simultaneously: it accelerates shrinking and removes moisture from the fiber too quickly, making it brittle and rough. Room temperature and patience are the only right helpers.

In most cases, you do not need to. And if you do, then with care.

Does a Pashmina even need ironing?

A woven Pashmina is not a cotton shirt — it naturally has a lively, slightly irregular structure that should not and need not be ironed to a high gloss. Light wrinkles after washing or wearing often disappear on their own: through body heat when wearing, through a few hours of hanging at room temperature, or simply through airing. If you bring your Pashmina back to its original shape while still slightly damp after drying, you usually do not have an ironing issue at all.

If ironing — then like this

Those who still want to iron can do so — but with clear rules. Direct contact between a hot iron and cashmere fiber should be avoided. Always place a lightly dampened or dry cotton cloth between the iron and the Pashmina. Choose the lowest temperature setting — the wool or silk setting. No jerky movements, no pressing, just gentle gliding.

Even gentler is a steam iron or steamer at some distance from the fiber: the steam causes the fibers to swell and relax, wrinkles smooth out without the iron directly touching the fabric. Keep the device moving — one-sided heat exposure should be avoided.

Proper storage is half the care — a well-stored Pashmina remains beautiful for decades. A poorly stored one begins to deteriorate before it is worn again.

Fold — never hang

A Pashmina belongs folded in a drawer or box — never on a hanger. Unlike a cotton shirt, cashmere reacts to hanging storage by bulging and warping: the fine fibers stretch under their own weight, and unlike cotton, they do not return to their original shape. Fold the Pashmina loosely — too tight folding leaves crease marks and unnecessarily stresses the fiber.

Cool, dry, dark

Cashmere likes it cool, dry, and protected from light. Direct sunlight causes colors to fade and weakens the fiber over time. Moisture promotes mold growth. A normal wardrobe in a non-overheated room is ideal. Avoid storing in a basement or attic — too damp, too prone to temperature fluctuations.

Before storage: wash

The most important step before a seasonal break is most often skipped: never store your Pashmina unwashed. Moths and their larvae feed on keratin — the protein in cashmere fiber. What particularly attracts them are personal care residues, sweat, and small food particles that accumulate in the fabric during wearing. A freshly washed and completely dry Pashmina offers moths far less to feed on than a worn one.

Moth protection — natural and effective

Natural remedies work best against moths: lavender sachets, cedar wood balls, or wood pieces sprinkled with cedar oil keep larvae away and smell pleasant. Important: the cedar wood should not have direct contact with the Pashmina — best to wrap it in cloth and place it nearby. Chemical mothballs based on naphthalene are effective but leave an intense odor that is difficult to remove from the fabric — better to avoid.

For longer seasonal storage — such as over the summer — breathable cotton or linen bags are suitable. Plastic bags are moth-proof but do not allow air through and can promote mold with residual moisture. For complete security, use sealed boxes with a lavender sachet inside.

Pilling is not a sign of poor quality. It is a sign that your Pashmina is made from genuine, fine natural fibers.

What is pilling — and why does it happen especially with cashmere?

Pilling refers to small fiber knots that form on the surface of a textile when short, loose fibers break free through friction, tangle, and clump together. With synthetic fibers, this rarely happens — polyester and acrylic do not pill because their fibers are smooth and uniform. With cashmere, however, pilling is a natural consequence of fiber structure: the ultra-fine, slightly scaled cashmere fibers break free at the surface during wearing and clump together. The softer and finer the cashmere — the more it feels like cashmere — the more it tends to pill initially. This is not a contradiction but a physical law.

A tightly woven Pashmina releases fewer fibers and produces less pilling, but feels stiffer and less soft — while a loosely woven, softer Pashmina tends to show more pilling initially.

The good news: it gets better

After two to three washes, the outer fibers distribute and pilling reduces until it disappears completely. The loss of these excess surface fibers changes neither the quality nor the warmth of the cloth — the supporting fibers in the weave remain completely intact.

What to note with a woven Pashmina

Here a Pashmina differs from a knitted cashmere sweater: pilling combs should only be used on jersey and knitwear, as they can pull on woven cashmere fibers. For a woven Pashmina, these methods are recommended instead:

The gentlest method is by hand: lay the Pashmina flat after washing and gently remove the knots with your fingertips by gently pulling them out — never pluck or tear, but release. Alternatively, an electric pilling razor on the lowest setting works: lay the Pashmina flat and taut, work with light pressure and even movements in one direction only. Small sharp scissors are also suitable for cutting off individual knots — but require patience and a steady hand.

What promotes pilling

Friction is the main trigger: the seat belt in the car, a rough jacket edge, a coarse wool coat underneath, a handbag that constantly rubs against the scarf during wearing. The more friction, the more pilling.